Jaipur, The Jewellery Capital – A Haven Where Traditions Meet Modernity
Jaipur, The Jewellery Capital - A Haven Where Traditions Meet Modernity

Jaipur, The Jewellery Capital – A Haven Where Traditions Meet Modernity

Introduction

The history of traditional Indian jewellery is very old. The word jewellery originates from the Latin word “jocale”. The literal meaning of “jocale” is “plaything”.

It was about 5000-7000 years ago, during the times of Ramayana and Mahabharata, that jewellery and the desire to beautify was popularized. If you see in the Indus Valley Civilization, that dates back to 1500 BC, you can see that traces of beaded jewellery were found here.

India has been famous for its gemstones. IF you talk about diamonds, India was one of the first countries to mine diamonds. No wonder it was famous for Koh-i-Noor diamond, one of the largest and most famous cut diamonds in the world. Mughals reined in India during the 16th century. Along with them, they brought their knowledge and art of jewellery that helped many flourishing Indian artisans.

Also read:- Tourmaline Stone Meanings

If you are interested in jewellery, then this blog will help you gain detailed information about Jaipur – The Jewellery Capital of India.

From Polki to regal Thewa, from Meenakari to elegant Kundan – you will find all kinds of authentic gold jewellery at Jaipur. After all, Jaipur’s jewellery is famous for its unique combination of traditional and contemporary styles. Apart from traditional styles of Jaipur’s jewellery like Kundan, Meenakari, Jadau, Thewa, and Polki, you will also find contemporary styles over here, like fusion jewellery, temple jewellery, and antique jewellery.

Unravelling the Glittering Legacy: A Brief History of Jaipur’s Jewellery

An Overview of Jaipur’s history in jewellery-making

In 1927, King Jai Singh II built Jaipur with the vision of business and trade as Jaipur’s future. Even though Jaipur was the capital, the issue with Jaipur was, it was in the desert part of India, Rajasthan. Since the land was dry, the king of that time did not have the option of helping Jaipur flourish agriculturally. This was why, he envisioned Jaipur to be a trade and business hub.

In Jaipur, he developed the main market of jewellery, which, to this date, is still known as Johari Bazaar. The literal meaning of Johri Bazaar is “Jewellers’ Market”. 

If you talk about Rajasthan, you will find that Rajasthan is a land full of rich deposits of precious and semi-precious stones. Various stones like Emerald, Agate, Garnets, Amethyst, Topaz, Lapis Lazuli, and rubies are mined at various places in and around Rajasthan. As many know, these gemstones play an important role in astrology. According to the Indian Astrological system, various gems represent the nine planets in our Solar System, and these nine planets have the inherent power to rule and control one’s destiny.

Since King Jai Singh’s time, around 25,000 craftsmen are working in the jewellery industry. This art of jewellery making cannot be learnt from any school – it comes from a father to son – and this is one of the best ways to keep family secrets safe. This is why, you will find that most jewellers of Jaipur are trained in their family business.

This industry has been in Jaipur from past three hundred years. If you talk just about Emeralds – around 80-85% of worlds total emeralds are cut only in Jaipur. Apart from jeweller, Jaipur has been known for thirty-six different crafts.

The influence of the Mughals on Jaipur’s jewellery-making techniques

The Mughals left an indelible mark when it comes to the Indian Jewellery. In Mughal courts, one would find luxury and grandeur everywhere. The Mughals were known for their love of opulence and refinement, and it was especially visible in the aspect of jewellery.

Jewellery was a symbol for wealth and status to them. The Mughal elite liked gemstones and gold a lot. And only the most skilled craftsmen and artisans were allowed to create pieces for the Mughal Nobility. The Mughals showed a particular liking to pearl, and they believed that pearl was the most important symbol of luxury. The Mughal elites paid a lot of importance to pearls.

Mughal jewellery is a marriage of Indian and Middle eastern artisanship. It unites the India Goldwork with Middle Eastern floral designs. Heavy stonework and enamelling are two major features that distinguish Mughal jewellery from the classic Indian jewellery. 

Some of Rajputana’s (Rajputana was the area in and around Rajasthan) best-known goldsmiths worked for the Mughals. Manty Mughal kings married Rajput princesses, thereby bringing Rajput craftsmen into the Mughal ways of working. This led to an amalgamation of two distinct types of jewelleries – one from the Mughals that had delicate designs, and one from the Rajputs which had attention to detail.

If you talk about the techniques popularized by Mughals in the field of Jewellery making – there are many.

Kundan jewellery was popularised only via Mughals. The craft of setting the stones on gold at room temperature – and keeping in mind that the stones are hinged tightly to the gold – so they do not fall off – is a trademark jewellery making technique of the Mughals.

Another form of Rajasthani jewellery – Jadau – also finds it is rooted in the Mughal jewellery. Not only Jadau, but Meenakari also became popular during the Mughal era. Apart from Jadau and Meenakari, the Mughals also popularized Enamelling. It is a technique where coloured glass is fused to the surface of the metal by heating. Mughals also introduced floral designs and geometric patterns to traditional Indian jewellery.

The evolution of jewellery-making in Jaipur over the years

The Gems and Jewellery Export and Promotions Council (GJEPC) was formed in Jaipur via the Ministry of Commerce in 1966. On behalf of some 6,000 exporters, it worked to promote the gem and jewellery industry of India. 

During the organization’s first year, India’s exports of gemstones and jewellery were USD $28 million. However, till 2014, it had risen to USD $35 billion. Most of the growth came from the polishing of diamonds and diamond jewellery export, which was much greater than that of coloured stones and coloured stone jewellery.

Jaipur has at least one hundred factories which cut coloured gemstones. There are also huge cottage industries of artisan cutters who work on a contract basis. The industry is a blend of traditional artisans working in cottage industries and large factories that employ thousands of workers. 

The Finest Jewels of Jaipur: Exploring the Various Types of Jewellery

Jaipur is the capital of mesmerizing jewels and gems. Jewellery designers and gemstone lovers from the entire world come to Jaipur in order to buy their favourite designs of jewellery and comforting gemstones. Jaipur City has been a source of inspiration for tons of talented jewellers. It is a save haven for thousands of skilled artisans who have mastered the art of Kundan, Polki, Meenakari, Silver, and Thewa. A wide variety of jewellery is available in Jaipur, and you can find jewellery and gemstones from most affordable pieces to high-end expensive jewellery.

Below is a list of various types of jewellery that you can find in Jaipur.

Kundan Jewellery

The literal meaning of the word “Kundan” is “pure gold”. Kundan is a traditional Indian gemstone jewellery that involves a gem set with a gold foil, between the mount and the stones. This form of making of jewellery is used usually for necklaces.

The origin of Kundan jewellery in India can be traced back to the third century BCE. It started off in the Royal courts of Rajasthan and then flourished under royal sponsorship during the Mughal sultanate. Over the centuries, the Kundan jewellery of the courts was copied in silver because of which it became accessible to the average person. Kundan is one of the oldest forms of jewellery that is worn throughout India.

If we go into the technicalities of how Kundan is created, then we will find that Kundan jewellery is created by setting cautiously shaped, uncut diamonds and polished multi-coloured gemstones into pure gold or faux metal base. You might also notice Kandan embossing on them, and therefore it is named Kundan Jadau. One might also find a combination of enamelling Meenakari with Kundan’s work. In this art form, Meenakari is at the back surface, and Kundan is at the front surface.

Polki Jewellery

A novice jewellery enthusiast would say that Kundan and Polki jewellery are identical. But the crafted jewellers of Jaipur know the difference. It’s true that Kundan and Poli are almost the same. Even the process of crafting both the jewellery is kind of identical, with one key difference – in Polki, raw uncut diamonds are used. Apart from this, Polki is much more lustrous and expensive in comparison to Kundan.

If we talk about history, we will find that old diamond jewellery, especially from the Mughal period, uses unfaceted diamonds. Mughal-style jewellery featuring uncut diamonds is termed “Polki”, which referred to a style of cleaving diamonds. Although the diamonds used in modern Polki jewellery are of low grade, and they do not have much of an investment value, you will find that Polki jewellery can be expensive. One speciality of Polki jewellery is diamonds used in Polki jewellery are backed by a silver foil that allows light to reflect. Even Kundan jewellery uses the same style, but it uses glass instead of diamonds.

Silver Jewellery

 When we think about jewellery from Jaipur, no matter how hard we may try, we cannot forget silver jewellery. The gen-z and millennials today are enjoying the rustic charm of silver jewellery. The beautiful silver jewellery is available at flea markets in Jaipur, as well as at most luxury stores.

If you talk about the current trend, women prefer silver jewellery more than any other kind of metal. Silver is also said to calm people. Silver also has a deep cultural significance, just like gold, in India. It is widely used in ornaments, utensils, jewellery, idols, etc. The high malleable quality of silver makes it a perfect metal for intricate patterns and delicate designs. It is also extremely durable which makes it good for daily use.

Silver is also used in tribal jewellery and ornaments because of its affordable price. As many know, Rajasthan is very famous for its tribal jewellery, and the tribal groups of Rajasthan adorn colourful weighty ornaments, decorated with shells, beads, and metallic mesh that makes it look different from every glance of it.

If you talk about what sort of ornaments are worn by Rajasthani women, it includes upper armlet, neck ring (known as “hansuli”), Rajasthani necklace, mandliya string neckband, heavily layered belt, single waist chain, Tokariya (which are the tribal silver hoops) and toe rings.

Thewa Jewellery

Thewa is a special way of jewellery making that involves the fusing of worked-out sheet gold on molten glass. It evolved in Pratapgarh district, Rajasthan India. Its origin dates to the Rajput era.

The process of making Thewa is as follows. In the making of Thewa, you fuse 23K Gold with multicoloured glass. The glass is treated so it gives out a glittering effect, which, on one hand, beautifies it, while on the other, highlights the intricate gold work. The whole process takes about one month period, from starting to crafting a piece to adding its final touches, by skilled artisans. It starts with broken pieces of terracotta, finely ground, mixed with chemicals and oil to produce a thick paste. The paste is then spread on a wooden base that has twenty-three-carat gold sheets of over 40-gauge thickness and the mixture is set onto it. The free-hand design is etched on this. 

Because this kind of jewellery is tough to make, it is an uncommon Jaipur handicraft. These products are rare and there is a great demand for these products. Its main feature is that no one can learn this artistry, due to which it is extremely appealing to this world.

Lac or Lacquer Jewellery

If you are wondering what Lacquer is, it would be hard for you to believe that it is a resinous secretion from an insect. The most widely cultivated species of lac insects, Kerria lacca, produce lac, which, as discussed above, is a resinous secretion.

Lac jewellery originated in Rajasthan, and it has gained a lot of popularity in India in today’s day and age. Among various types of lac jewellery, bangles are the most famous Bangles made of lac are o bright colour and when glass work is done on them, it makes them much more appealing. It is a famous belief in Rajasthani people that wearer of lac bangles receives good omen from the gods.

This prominent craft of Rajasthan was developed by the tribals of Rajasthan. This old craft of tribal people of Rajasthan has now become the choice of many urban households. The accessories made of lac are a choice of everyone for obvious reasons. First, its affordable. Some major accessories of lac jewellery include Bala, Bajuband, Rakhi, Jod, Gajra, Gokhru, and Timaniyan. A huge chunk of lac jewellery is exported outside India, which inspires the skilled craftsmen to improve the design and patterns of the jewellery. 

The process of making lacquer jewellery is very complicated. Glass beads, flower shaped mirrors and decorative wires are used for enhancement and beauty of the jewellery. The bangles of lac consist of an inner core that has a covering of thin layer of better-quality lac. Core lac, when mixed with materials similar to white clay, improves the strength of the bangles. The heating, mixing, kneading, and hammer pounding of the ingredients takes place repeatedly till dough like mass is formed. Once this mass is heated, it is shaped.

Meenakari jewellery

Meenakari is a different art in jewellery making. It was introduced in Rajasthan by the Mughals. Jaipur is very famous for its Meenakari jewellery. It is a skill in which you fuse or enamel the metal. In Meenakari, you enamel gold surfaces with vibrant colours and the gold surface also has embeddings of semi-precious and precious stones on it.

Minakari or Meenakari is the process of painting and colouring the surfaces of metals and ceramic titles through enamelling originating in Safavid Iran. Raja Man Singh of Mewar is often regarded as the promoter of Meenakari art in 16th century Jaipur. It was only because of his efforts, that this art gained a wide applaud among the people. Jaipur thus became the hub of Meenakari art with the influx of highly skilled artisans from Lahore. Over the years, it has been seen that the bridal jewellery of India has been greatly influenced by Meenakari.

If we talk about how Meenakari is designed, then, Meenakari designing basically refers to the process of coating engravings or grooves in jewelleries with coloured enamels. A wide variety of metals can be used for Meenakari design. Some of the metals in this list includes brass, copper, silver, and gold. The jewellery highlights depressions similar to a popular design or an animal figurine or image of a god or goddess. The basic idea behind this is to give the jewel the appearance of a picture. Which is why, Meenakari jewellery is used to beautifully express various themes and occasions.

Popular Jewellery Markets in Jaipur

As discussed above, Jaipur is the capital of dazzling jewellery and glittering gemstones. The most sought after and well-known jewellery market of Jaipur is Johri Bazar. It has consecutive rows of jewellery shops selling beautiful ranges of precious and semi-precious gemstones. Here, you will find and exquisite range of diamonds, emeralds, pearls, rubies, and gold/silver jewellery. You will find a lot of traditional and folk jewellery over here. 

Apart from Johari Bazar, Tripolia Bazar is also famous for jewellery. Tripolia Bazar has an extensive variety of colourful lac bangles and lac jewellery. There is an area in Tripolia, known as Maniharon ka Rasta which deals in a large variety of lac bangles. Here, local craftsmen produce beautiful lac bangles and other jewellery pieces, which are studded with colourful beads and mirrors.

If you are looking for artificial fancy jewellery, then you must visit Bapu Bazaar, one of the busiest markets in the city. Apart from artificial jewellery, you will also find traditional Rajasthani jewellery at Bapu Bazaar. Another market that a jewellery lover must visit is Chaura Rasta. It is side by side to Johri Bazaar.

Another location that you must know as a jewellery lover is Sitapura Industrial Area. Sitapura Industrial Area in Jaipur is a hub for jewellery manufacturing, and it has many jewellery manufacturers. Over the years, it has become a jewellery manufacturing hub because it comes under Special Economic Zone or SEZ. SEZ Sitapura, Jaipur had been set up with the core idea of developing infrastructure and hassle-free environment, with state-of-the-art infrastructure, uninterrupted power supply and expeditious clearances. It was best suited for export trade with a primary focus in the fields of gems and jewellery. Originally, it was planned for the specific sector of Gems and Jewellery only, but later, it was deemed as Multi-product SEZ.

Conclusion

In this article, we have discussed how Jaipur rose as a leading manufacturing hub of jewellery and gemstones, not only in India but in the entire world. It did not matter whether Jaipur was ruled by Rajputana, Mughals, or even the Britishers – the jewellery industry of Jaipur always thrived at all times. What is also astounding is the fact that the best-kept secrets of jewellery making – be it of Kundan, Polki, Meenakari, Silver, or Thewa – are being passed from the previous generation to the next.

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And entire generations of families engage in bettering this art of gemstone studded jewellery making. You can get a wide variety of jewellery in the markets of Jaipur – a few of them being Johari Bazar, Tripolia Bazar, Bapu Bazar, and Chaura Rasta.

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